krakow, day 1

Krakow (there's at least 4-5 ways to spell it and this is the one I feel like using right now), is fabulous, and I'm so glad to be here, even though I've spent the day walking and my feet absolutely ache.

Last night, I boarded the Polish train from L'viv to Krakow and was pleasantly surprised to find out that a) there are three berths instead of four per cabin, b) there are little cupboards you can put things in, c) you're given a wrapped sweet roll, a bottle of water, and a thing of soap along with your washcloth, and d) the duvet was big and fluffy. Not to mention, the bathroom was a great deal nicer than the ones on Ukrainian trains. However, to give Ukrainian trains the credit that is due them, they have a) more comfortable mattresses, b) larger, softer pillows, c) more head room above your bunk, and d) offer you tea in the morning.

I got to Krakow around 5:30 a.m., hopped a tram (which have a much better system of organization here), and then got to my hostel. I couldn't get a bed yet, because they were all full, so I conked out on a couch for a couple of hours, showered, breakfasted, and headed off to explore the city. Jes had texted me late last night that her plans had suddenly changed and she was going to be out of town today without a chance for me to go with her, so I was on my own. It was lovely. Surprisingly for me, I found myself utterly uninterested in museums and instead did a lot of shopping, both window and actual. I think it's because we've gone to various museums in L'viv. I walked down to Wawel Castle, but it was at least 85 degrees and the line for tickets made me decide that tomorrow would be a much better time to see it, even if not everything will be open.

I then walked through the old Jewish quarter out to a shopping mall Vanessa and Ally had told me about, where I ate at Pizza Hut (I'm on vacation, and I'm sure Jes will show me some authentic Polish places tomorrow, so I don't feel like I'm slighting myself of the authentic Krakow experience...plus, it was air-conditioned) and bought myself a new dress. Light brown cotton, sleeveless, with gathers/ruffles at the neck and armholes and a built-in sash. It was cute, fit well (apparently, doing the conversion back to American sizes, it's a size smaller than I thought I take...yay for lots of walking!), was decently priced, and I can wear it both now (which will stretch my laundry out) and when I start teaching this fall.

Then I went back to a toy shop I'd visited earlier in the day and found stuffed animals for my honorary nieces and nephew--Breanna and Nathanial Shirley and Rebekah Susan-to-be Herrick (yes, Heather, I'm claiming the title of honorary aunt, or at least "good friend of mommy's"). I figure I'm going to be one of those quirky, well-traveled aunts who give good presents, since I had such a good example (hi, Aunt Rebecca!). :)

Other purchases included pretty bookmarks at a coffee shop/bookstore and a silver and amber pendant with a cameo of a flower in it, which I saw first thing this morning, pondered all day, and went back in the late afternoon to get. Not to mention gingerbread, gelato, and a Polish snack that's sort of like a cross between a bagel and a pretzel.

I'm amused to notice that even though Ukrainian and Polish are fairly similar, when I speak Ukrainian to people they answer in English. I don't know if this is because a) they speak English to everyone who doesn't speak Polish, b) they can tell just by looking at me that I speak English (which is ironic if true, since no one in Ukraine seems to think I'm American), or c) my Ukrainian sounds to them like broken Polish and they figure it'll just be easier if we use English.

My feet just ache. I'm guessing I got in several miles today, what with all the wandering and back-tracking I did. So now I'm back at the hostel, resting up for a concert with the Krakow Chamber Orchestra at one of the cathedrals in town, which will feature Chopin's and Mozart's music. I debated on whether or not I should get a ticket, which, although quite cheap by U.S. standards, was more than I'd pay in Ukraine. Then a little voice inside my head (which sounded exactly like Mom) said, "You're here, you have the opportunity, you have the money, you should go." So, figuring it's a good idea to listen to Mom, I'm going.